Firstly, we need to determine the size of the area that requires heating. To do this, calculate the room’s volume by multiplying its length, width, and height, resulting in cubic meters (m³).

Next, we calculate the kilowatts needed to heat the area and identify fireplaces certified to provide that amount of heat. The required kilowatt rating is determined by dividing the room’s cubic volume (m³) by 25, then adding 2. This formula indicates that approximately 1 kilowatt is needed for every 25 cubic meters.

However, this calculation is influenced by several factors, such as room and house insulation, the number of windows, and the outside temperature. Generally, most houses in South Africa are not well-sealed. The desired room temperature should also be considered.

Since hot air rises, heating is more effective from the top down. Therefore, if your ceiling height exceeds 2.6 meters or you have no ceiling, the above calculation may not be sufficient, and a higher kilowatt output might be required.

All closed combustion fireplaces have a kilowatt rating. When selecting a fireplace, remember that you can always choose a larger model and burn less fuel, but you should never select a smaller one and overfire it, as this could damage the fireplace and void your warranty.

Experience plays a crucial role in making the right choice, so please feel free to contact us if you are unsure which fireplace best suits your space.

Do not use your fireplace for the first 24 hours to allow the waterproofing to dry. Using it prematurely will invalidate your guarantee.

Very important: When making your first fire, leave the door slightly open, with the handle not fully locked. The curing paint can cause the fire rope in the door to stick to the fireplace, so avoid pressing the fire rope against the paint during the initial hours. Keep the door unlocked until the first fire dies out naturally and the fireplace has cooled completely. The fire rope is made of specialized glass fiber, not asbestos.

Note: The demonstration fire done by the installer using newspapers does not count as the “initial ignition.”

1. Empty the fireplace and ash pan. Remove tools, paperwork, gloves, and anything on top of the fireplace. If self-installing, also remove anything stuck to the glass window.
2. Slide the lower primary and top secondary air controls fully open. If there is no bottom air vent, open the ash drawer below the door by about 1 cm. Most built-in fireplaces have air vents situated below the window/door.
3. Your first fire should start very small and gradually build up, increasing the temperature slowly over 3-4 hours. Begin with a fire starter and kindling, then add two logs of wood once it’s burning well. As the fire gets going, close the vents halfway to two-thirds. Over time, refuel by adding 1-2 logs at a time.
4. During the first fire, the paint will begin to cure. Some odor and a bit of smoke may come from your fireplace, but this will dissipate after a few fires.

In summary, closed (or slow) combustion involves burning solid fuel in a sealed metal box or stove, which increases heat output and reduces fuel consumption by 20-30% compared to a traditional open fireplace.

Unlike an open fireplace, where fuel burns quickly due to unrestricted oxygen flow and much of the heat escapes up the chimney, a closed combustion fireplace allows you to control the oxygen intake through various air vents.

This enables better heat regulation than an open fireplace. Additionally, burning fuel in a stove achieves a higher temperature than in an open fireplace, resulting in a more efficient fire that produces more heat with less fuel, saving you money over time.

Some fireplaces also incorporate advanced technology to reduce emissions, making them environmentally friendly.

Overfiring the fireplace will damage the internal components, causing the side, bottom, and/or top plates to warp or crack, and will void the warranty.

To ensure your fireplace operates at the correct temperature, you should be able to sit comfortably 2 meters away from it. Typically, you won’t need to burn more than one average-sized log in a small fireplace, two in a medium fireplace, and a maximum of four in a large fireplace at any given time.

How valuable is your time? Cast iron takes a bit longer to heat up but retains heat longer, whereas steel heats up quickly but loses heat just as fast once the fire dies down.

Some entry-level cast iron fireplaces lack the precise airflow control found in their plate steel counterparts. The molding process for cast iron can sometimes result in less precision in individual parts.

How do you weigh price versus quality? Steel fireplaces often feature more contemporary designs, contributing to their popularity. Fireplaces made of thinner plate steel (≤ 3mm) are more affordable but won’t last as long as cast iron. Regardless of the material, regular maintenance and using dry wood are essential for longevity.

With advanced CNC technology, most manufacturers are now favoring steel.

In summary, there’s not a significant difference between steel and cast iron fireplaces. If you buy from a reputable company, you’ll likely be satisfied with either choice.

If you want the best of both worlds, consider a steel fireplace with cast iron internal parts and a cast iron door.